Loft and Setting
Cheapest change available and frequently the only one needed. Your existing head may already have the right answer inside its adjustable range.
Sixty minutes, fresh swings, and a build judged on what it does when the flag is standing straight out rather than on a still-air best ball.
The number on the sole of your driver tells you what the head was manufactured at. It does not tell you what the face presents to the ball, and the gap between those two things is routinely three or four degrees. Hand position, shaft behaviour and angle of attack all move it.
So the block starts by measuring what you actually deliver. Only once that is on the screen does it make any sense to talk about whether you need a nine-degree head or an eleven. Plenty of golfers who "play nine and a half" are delivering fourteen, and buying a lower-lofted head would make things worse rather than better.
Hitting slightly up on a driver produces more carry at the same speed than hitting down, because it raises launch while reducing spin. That is the closest thing to free distance in the whole sport, and it costs nothing except tee height and ball position.
We measure your attack angle in the first ten swings. If it is negative, we will show you the number and tell you what a two-degree improvement would be worth for you specifically. Whether you chase that with a lesson is your call, but we will fit the club to the angle you have today, not the one you might build in six months.
Spin loft is the difference between the angle the club is travelling and the loft it is presenting. It is what actually drives spin rate. Chasing the lowest spin number available is a well-known way to end up with a ball flight that falls out of the sky, particularly into a breeze, and it is a mistake we see more often than the opposite.
The target is a spin number that keeps the ball in the air for the wind you play in. In central Iowa that number is usually a little higher than what a tour-focused fitting would recommend.
You may leave without buying a driver. A large share of driver blocks end with an adjustable-hosel setting change and a different tee height, written on the spec sheet, costing the block fee and nothing else.
Cheapest change available and frequently the only one needed. Your existing head may already have the right answer inside its adjustable range.
Bend profile before weight before flex label. This is where a headwind carry number separates two options that look identical in still air.
Most stock drivers are longer than most golfers can centre. Half an inch off often buys more through better contact than it costs in speed.
Last, deliberately. Once loft, shaft and length are settled, the differences between current heads are smaller than the marketing suggests.
Every driver we test gets compared twice: once in still air and once with a modelled twelve mile per hour headwind applied to the measured flight. Twelve is not arbitrary. It is close to the average sustained wind speed across a central Iowa golf season, which means it is closer to your normal conditions than a calm bay is.
The results reorder the options more often than people expect. A build that is three yards longer in still air and eight yards shorter into the wind is not the longer driver. It is the driver that works on the fifteen calm days a year.
Read More on Wind and CarryBring the driver you have. We start by measuring it, not by replacing it.